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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest place earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.